I mix up several weathering solutions of various strengths. ). I am using Humbro, Testors ect. Don’t worry- the Future will protect the decal from staining. (And yes, there is a method to my madness.). Chalk It Up To Pastels My second step to weathering ships involves the use of chalk pastels. Note how the panel lines and access door behind the cockpit now have enhanced contrast. doesn’t have to be brand new, like is recommended for masking canopies. The color is much more rich, and turpenoid spreads much better than water…. The pictures below show the application of a I have overcome the world.””, Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window). Make Wash Flow Evenly to Avoid Rings. Some of the finer First, a piece of pastel chalk is ground to powder. To ensure the painting is uniform and neat you should first clean all components with soapy water to remove dust, grease and fingerprint residue, rinse with clean, warm water and allow to air dry. For me personally, it’s … Second, the wash must be made with soapy water – the soap reduces the adhesion of the paint. The subject - this is the obvious. just pull some over from tray B as needed. Every panel line, top and bottom. Factors Determining Weathering. Cross-hatching--which refers to the practice of drawing small straight lines--can be used for shading or to add dimension to a painting. I have been searching high-and-low on the net for a good wash technique, and this is it. What truly makes a model look real is when it looks used. area). Draw many straight lines close together. maybe that’s it. Or 36. What follows is the process of washing the panel lines, accompanied by several photos of the results of each step: Step 1: Paint the model as normal. wash (pastel chalk dust + water + drop of dishwashing liquid), Enamel paints + acrylic clear coat: oil wash What that means is that the entire wheel will be subjected to the same environment at all times with the exception of parts that have been recently replaced. It also provides a comparision between a traditional ‘mix-it-yourself’ oil paint wash and ready made enamel wash from ‘MIG Productions’. To start with, let’s look at the “tools” I use in doing an oil wash. First, you’ll need a model. Add about twice as much in volume of water. You’ll want the model’s surface to be fairly smooth. It should take up the oil in the problem area. acrylic wash (acrylic paint + water + drop of dishwashing liquid). Don't forget to detail weapons, vents and even lifeboats. Almost every part of a ship model can benefit from a wash and dry-brush. I also use odorless turpenoid as my thinner- I picked up mine at Hobby Lobby. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. I used a different brand (Turpenoid Natural)and it ate through two coats of Future and into the paint, ruining my paint job. Once you are done, you may find some areas that the wash didn’t settle in to your liking, or maybe you accidentally wiped it away. Thanks for your patience. Though, this is a personal technique and not necessarily the best approach. it. Send us your comments below! But you failed to mention ‘how to’ make such a great model like this one!! I’ve successfully put a dull coat over them after 24 hours, put when I’ve tried to add other paint or finishing steps, I found that a week was need. This creates a third color. Never fear…. If the decal starts to tear- your kinife is too dull! Hi iceman! Oh, My projects are the Hobby Craft CF-105 Avro Arrow. hey- why would you blame me? You can touch things up by adding more wash in any areas that need However, if you want to remove it, grab a piece of paper towel. Outstanding article Jon. As with anything new – test on some scrap! Thank you for a very comprehensive tutorial. Thanks for visiting AgapeModels.com, and have a blessed day. ( snooty, unhelpful, jerky builders) brotherhood. And it’s OK to get sloppy. And if it’s 45 minutes, no problem. As you come to the end of a scale model build, you often have a few decisions to make – do you go for a polished finish, or a more weathered look? My question(s) are about the Future wax. Not that it’s a problem- but it can take a while to clean off later. You have several options for making up the If you wipe aggressively, you I just feel so lost because I don’t know the various strengths of different thinners mush less the variants between brands. You don’t want the towel moist… just the slightest hint of turpenoid. No matter what colour you use, the basic techniques of preparing the model and application of the the wash still apply. Since I am located in Buenos Aires, Argentina, I wanted to say that I used ALBA turpentine as my thinner and it works good. Grab a cotton swab. A glosscoat is the easiest way to do that. The technique does not require waxing since this is no longer needed on cars that have been treated with an Opti-Coat sealant. On swabbing up the excess, one thing I have found useful regarding the technique is to roll” the swab as I wipe in order to present a clean swab surface as I’m wiping. container. Some of the commonly used techniques in weathering scale models are washes; dry-bushing, using pastel chalks, airbrush hazing and fading, and paint chipping with Prisma color silver pencils. Here are a few of my videos you may find useful. Don’t forget gear doors, landing struts…. Check your email- I sent you a detailed reply that will hopefully answer your questions. You will also get a better feel for developing your technique. That’s right, walk away. What if you need to use paint over it say for more detailing? Dry-brushing a model became a standard technique used by almost every modeller on almost every model. Scrape some dust from the chalk onto a piece of foil or paper, Q-tips. Oils take a loooooong time to fully cure. (And if it doesn’t…. Or 96. This one is a discussion of the general usage and application of Future – https://youtu.be/AbHGhHooVRI, This one is a discussion about adding clear coats to Gundam, but the general principles apply to any model – https://youtu.be/dz3GX2QQQdg. "pin wash "= use a tiny brush and dot it on a panel line so it will run into the line, then wipe off the excess. But generally the gloss coat step is recommended. Finally, some cotton swabs, paper towels and a small brush- I like a “0” brush. The pre-treatment you’ve already done should aid in drawing this thicker color into the pael lines very well. 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